Azerbaijan Angles To Distinguish Its Wines

Context

Forty years ago in Azerbaijan in the south Caucasus region of western Asia, the laconic lethargy of Soviet bulk wine production was walloped by planned vineyard destruction. The result left winemakers uncertain of how to move forward. Today, the country is redefining its wine production identity, with international grape varieties increasingly complemented by local and regional influence.

During the Soviet era, when Azerbaijan was one of 15 republics comprising the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, quantity in wine making was prioritized over quality. During peak production in 1984 the then republic generated 26 million gallons (10 million hectoliters) of wine annually via 120 wineries and 420 viticulture farms. Fifty-six types of wines were produced, as well as 10 cognacs, reflecting a preference for sweet and fortified wines. In 1985 the General Secretary of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union, Mikhael Gorbachev, instituted a campaign to reduce alcohol production and consumption. This ‘Gorbachev’s Prohibition’ era resulted in the systematic destruction of over 120 square miles (32,000 hectares) of vineyards within Azerbaijan.

After the Soviet Union disintegrated in 1991, many vine growers and winemakers moved to cities such as the capital of Baku to seek livelihoods. The wine industry largely collapsed.

“The system under communism was run by the central government and vineyards were not ours to own. After the Soviet Union ended people lost interest in vineyards and moved to Baku to work,” explained Penah Abdullayev, an Azerbaijan wine consultant.

Revival

Since about the year 2000 wine production has increasingly revived in Azerbaijan, focused more on quality than volume. By 2017 up to 5,000 acres (2,000 hectares) of new vineyards were being planted annually, and in 2018 the Baku Wine School was established to train sommeliers. Regardless of this renaissance in wine, fruit distillates still remain popular in the country, even more so than wine, beer or vodka.

Today the country grows a mélange of three types of wine grapes—international (such as Pinot Noir and Viognier), Azerbaijan indigenous (red Madrasa and white Bayan Shira, for example) and indigenous Caucuses varieties (such as red Saperavi and white Rkatsiteli from Georgia).

Azerbaijan lacks a wine appellation system. Its main wine growing regions include, moving from the capital counterclockwise: Baku-Absheron, Caspian Shoreline, Shirvan and Caucasian Foothills, Ganja-Gazakh, Nakchivan and Lakaran-Astara.

Wine promotion actions include the fourth annual Grape and Wine Festival that will take place later this year in the village of Meysari. Last year’s event spanned three consecutive days, included representatives from 24 wineries and hosted some 4,000 visitors daily.

Modernity

Archaeological evidence of grape seeds, wine residue and storage containers indicate that wine was produced in Azerbaijan in 6000 BCE. Evidence of ancient technologies to produce vintages between the third and first centuries BCE include a stone wine vat with a textured bottom for grape pressing—excavated in the village of Khynysly in the Shamakhi district, hours west of Baku City. Today Shamakhi is the production point for the Meysari brand, created by Shirvan Wines. It exemplifies modern large scale wine production that combines French grape varieties with both Azerbaijan and Caucuses regional varieties. This producer was the first to generate organic wines in Azerbaijan. They opened in 2014 and now generate a million liters of juice a year from 0.6 square miles (160 hectares) of vineyards. Their aromatic white Sadaf blend includes varieties from southern France—Grenache Blanc, Rousanne, Marsanne and Clairette as well as local Bayan Shira, while their red Marcan blend includes French Marselan, Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre—bolstered by regional Saperavi grapes from Georgia.

German Influence

Visiting the Ganja-Gazakh wine region in the west of Azerbaijan provides historical context for grape production.

The highway west from Baku toward Ganja passes flaming oil pylons, gaunt cattle, farmhouses with brown corrugated iron roofs and distant views of snow-covered Caucuses peaks. The route is flanked by a railway line to the north and parallel oil pipelines on the south. The climate turns temperate continental as you move westward and the open landscape resembles a lush version of rural Wyoming, while delicate greenery south of Ganja city mirrors Craters of the Moon National Monument in the U.S. state of Idaho.

After the Napoleonic wars in Europe, Germans from their country’s southern Württemberg region began settling in Azerbaijan in 1817, lured by the Russian Empire’s promise of free land, tax exemptions and religious freedom. These immigrants introduced both European grape varieties and wine making technology. By the end of the 19^th century Azerbaijan was the main producer of wine and brandy in the Caucuses region.

The city of Goygol is a twenty-minute drive south of Ganja—Azerbaijan’s second largest city. Goygol includes 65,000 residents, prim parks, tall pines and occasional Tyrolean architecture. Children spike volleyballs on little used streets where ubiquitous Russian Lada cars prowl—often painted glossy bright red or blue.

The Goygol Winery was established in 1860 by German colonists. During the Soviet era it produced the greatest volume of sparkling wine for the U.S.S.R.

Today the facility is split into two by the city’s main road. Wine is produced on one side, and on the other side, vodka. Massive, tall hand constructed brick cellars are located 52 feet deep (16 meters) below the ground surface and include disused, sizable barrels hewn long ago by Germans using local oak.

Until recently their wines were all single grape varietals, including international Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as local Madrasa and Bayan Shira. Today wines are produced from 13 grape varieties and include blends.

Goygol Winery’s Karabakh label includes a sparkling and a dry Chardonnay, a fruity Madrasa and an oak aged Pinot Noir.

“We’re trying to be innovative, but also to use heritage we gained from the Germans. Our uniqueness here is history, because many other wineries in Azerbaijan are brand new,” chief winemaker Rasim Omarov explained.

Named after a village in the Savalan valley in the northern region of Azerbaijan, the Savalan Aspi Winery is located midway between eastern and western borders in the wine region of Shirvan and Caucasian Foothills. The climate here is temperate dry as well as semi arid, and the adjacent river valley is flanked by rocky brown bluffs that resemble portions of the outskirts of Gunnison, Colorado. The winding access road passes wandering cows, stone quarries and a wide braided river.

Savalan Aspi produces 23 different wines that are mostly exported to Russia, as well as to restaurants in Europe. Intriguingly, the winemaker is Italian, the architect is Italian and Italian equipment is used to process international grapes from Italy, France and Spain.

The winery includes two unexpectedly salient attractions intended to enhance wine tourism in Azerbaijan. One is a handsome interactive wine museum; the other is the largest wooden wine barrel in use in the world. Constructed from Slavonian oak by Italian producer Garbellotto, it is 15.5 feet (4.75 meters) in diameter and holds 17,588 gallons (66,579 liters) of wine—the equivalent volume in 295 Bordeaux barrels, or containing enough wine to fill over 88,000 bottles.

“In the past five years Azerbaijan wine has become more popular,” said Aygün Atayeva, winery sales manager at Savalan Aspi and the country’s first female sommelier. “The flow of Russian visitors is increasing, and tourists go back home and promote our wine.”

Craft

North of Baku a semi-arid steppe climate embraces the Caspian Shoreline wine region, where patches of greenery resemble portions of the rolling countryside of County Wicklow in Ireland and where hazelnuts, cherries and apples grow. This is the location of the F.A. Valley Winery, co-owned by Dr. Farhad Ağayev, who trained as a vascular surgeon at St. Petersburg Military Academy in Russia as well as in Nuremberg, Germany. This winery includes perhaps the country’s strongest Italian tilt toward grapes and technology.

Doctor Ağayev continues his work as a medical doctor, but also produces wines from six red Italian grape varieties—Pugnitello, Colorino, Sagrantino, Aglianico, Nero d’Avola and Sangiovese. He and his brother Farid—an ‘investor, promoter and motivator’—hired consultants from Tuscany in Italy to help establish 15 acres (six hectares) of vines as well as wine production facilities.

When asked about his choice of grapes, he explained simply: “I like Italian wines.”

Located between the Caspian Sea and the Caucuses Mountains, the climate here is warm Mediterranean with scant rain. The soil includes blue clay with limestone beneath and the vines receive about 12 inches (300 millimeters) of rain a year—a third of what falls on Tuscany, or half what falls on the island of Sicily. The result is that Doctor Ağayev only needs to treat vines for disease four or five times a year, unlike in northern Italy, where perhaps 15 treatments are required annually.

“Just soil, vines, wine and bottle. Very simple. Wine is not a beverage. It’s philosophy, energy and food. I want to make honest, healthy wine and also to show that Azerbaijan can make big wines.”

Doctor Ağayev appears to be a thoughtful, methodical and modest individual who takes his professional endeavors seriously. Together with his dog named Nebbiolo—a white Turkmenistan Shepherd—we paced along a rutted dirt road past irrigation canals and thistles and a grove of hazelnut trees to view his vines. There are no other vineyards close to his plot—the nearest being six miles (10 kilometers) away, and abandoned. When he began growing grapes local farmers told him he was foolish not to aim for short term profits. Yet his patience is paying off. F.A. Valley’s 2020 Ragazzaccia wine made from the Aglianico grape recently won a Sommeliers Choice silver award.

Inside the winery, juice flows by gravity into cement tanks where it is fermented. No fining or filtration is used to make wines and grapes are exposed to indigenous rather than commercial yeasts. Wines are then aged differentially—rosé and effervescent in steel, Sangiovese in large Slavonian oak casks, and Aglianico and Nero d’Avola in French oak barrels. Doctor Ağayev also uses clay amphorae from Alto Adige in northern Italy. He prefers these to terracotta vats from Georgia because he believes the Italian product allows less oxygen infiltration. Among several wines, he produces three excellent value naturally evervescent (‘pet nat’ or pétillant naturel) wines, each made from different grapes—Sangiovese, Colorino and Nero d’Avola.

Doctor Ağayev embodies a quintessential artisan winemaker who inherited no equipment or family knowledge but taught himself how to produce wines of robust quality.

Local

Although pervasive, respected and adapted to local conditions, it is unlikely that international grape varieties will provide the sole spine to Azerbaijan wines in the future. Local and regional grape varieties contribute unique flavor profiles that can help establish vintner identity. Their unique flavors also pair well with Azerbaijan’s wealthy cuisine.

Winemaker Marco Catelani from Tuscany, Italy, moved to Azerbaijan 15 years ago. He and partners Penah Abdullayev and Andrea Uliva operate Thinking Wine 2.0—an enological consulting team. He respects the viticultural heritage of his native Italy but is dedicated to Azerbaijan’s local grapes, which he uses at Chabiant Winery.

Lean, bearded and scarved, he shared thoughts over a glass of white wine.

“Our mission and focus is on local Caucasian varieties and to promote Azerbaijan character. With Madrasa and Bayan Shira I am promoting authentic material for Azerbaijan. People now are more proud of local varieties.”

His business partner Penah Abdullayev agrees. “If you write Madrasa on the label, people are interested. European varieties are good, but we need to use our local varieties.”

Azerbaijan has over 450 indigenous grape varieties, of which only a few are currently used to make wine. The white grape Bayan Shira produces fresh, zesty, semi complex and easy drinking wines with bright acidity, juicy tropicals, minerality and sometimes a slightly honeyed mid palate—similar to a Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend but with more of a tangerine lilt. Or, think Sauvignon Blanc meets dry Riesling and Chablis.

The thick skinned Madrasa red grape from Azerbaijan produces wines with a light tannic structure, chocolate/red fruit aromas and flavors that can be complex, fruity and with subtle spices and firm acidity. Think northern Rhone Valley meets right bank Bordeaux.

The Saperavi grape, native to the country of Georgia, has genetic roots related to Syrah, revealed by its dark chocolate aromas, as well as its balanced heft and acidity. Its flavors are similar to those of a Baboso Negro from the Canary Islands, and its color is as dark as wine from the Croatina grape.

The future of Azerbaijan wines appears bright—due to the availability of distinct local grape varieties and dedicated individuals ravenous to craft wines. Just as the Clos Apalta winery in Chile created a French Bordeaux blend but added juice from the Carménère grape to provide a local signature, Azerbaijan could produce its own signature blend using the Madrasa grape as a critical component.

“We are working to change the wine culture,” emphasized Azerbaijani winemaker Aziz Gasimov. “This is not only business, it’s also passion. We want visitors to bring home our wines to share with their friends as they share their own memories of Azerbaijan.”

[This companion article is titled Why Visit The Vibrant And Varied Capital City Of Baku In Azerbaijan.]

Tasting Notes

Below are tasting notes for 18 selected Azerbaijan wines. Prices are retail at the cellar door, converted to U.S. dollars. Additional wine notes are included here on the Vino Voicies site.

Some but not all wines have been assigned values in one of three categories of Good ♫, Excellent ♫♫ and Superlative ♫♫♫. These were generated via my own proprietary Vino Voices algorithm, which combines both quality ratings and prices.

Meysari. Bülluri. 2020. 91 points. $13.50. [Good Value ♫]

The Meysari winery is named after a local village. Bülluri means ‘crystal’ in the Azerbaijani language. Made from Clairette blended with the two Georgian grapes (Mtsvane and Rkatsiteli) and one Azerbaijan grape (Bayan Shira). 13.5% alcohol. Perfumed aromas of lilacs and mandarins and grapefruit. Crisp acidity, slightly honeyed mid palate. Similar to a Pinot Gris/Sauvignon Blanc assemblage—light, rounded, fresh with slight lime flavors on a sparky finish. Pair with white cheese, edamame or sashimi.

Meysari. Innabi. 2020. 91-92 points. $13.50. [Good Value ♫]

A blend of the Georgian grape Saperavi together with local Azerbaijan grapes Madrasa, Shirvanshahi and Khindogni. 13.5% alcohol. Aromas include black licorice, petrol, cinnamon and nutmeg. Crisp tannins, well enfolded acidity and a long finish that includes mocha and star anise flavors.

Meysari. Maxmari Premium. 2020. 91-92 points. $17.00. [Good Value ♫]

A blend of Marselan, Cinsault, Carignan, Grenache and Mourvèdre that includes 13.5% alcohol with bright aromas of dark plums, exotic red fruits, charcoal, graphite and chocolate syrup. Heft in structure and elegance in the mouth; a dreamy/creamy wine as supple as a Beaujolais Cru that is easy drinking with good acidity mid palate and generous but light flavors that include maple syrup, mocha and black pepper with a brilliant red licorice finish.

Yarimada. Saperavi. 2012.

Made by Azerbaijan winemaker Aziz Gasimov using Saperavi, a grape preferred by Soviets in the past because its color darkens wines. The genetic roots of Saperavi relate to Syrah, which is evident from the earth and mocha aromas and chocolate flavors. Light and bright acidity, easy drinking and fresh. One glass will follow another of this well balanced beauty.

Karabakh. Pearl Sparkling Wine. Brut. 90-91 points. $8.00. [Good Value ♫]

13% alcohol in this 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine made using the charmat method. Aromas of brioche, limes, fresh tropical fruits and slight menthol. Bright acidity, short finish and abundant citric flavors.

Karabakh. Bayan Shira. 2019.

The labels on the Karabakh range of wines show different rugs from different portions of Azerbaijan. Rancio aromas that include orange peels and oxidation in this 12% alcohol wine. Bayanshira lacks structure and so relies on acidity and fruit to carry its character. Sold predominantly to Poland.

Karabakh. Madrasa. 2019. 90 points. $8.50. [Good Value ♫]

Engaging acidity which makes for easy drinking. Aromas of strawberry jam and chocolate chips, as well as red cherries, black berries, red plums, candy cane and slight black pepper. Slick finish, though not a complex wine.

Savalan Aspi Winery. Viognier. 2023. 91+ points. $8.00. [Excellent Value ♫♫]

Perfume of white flowers and white pears as well as mandarins and flint. Sharp initial acidity, and flavors that include grapefruit and other tropicals as well as minerality. Distinct sharpness, good length, freshness and crisp and bright acidity that provides a tongue tingling finish.

Savalan Aspi Winery. Canyon Red Dry Reserve. 2018. 93 points. $19.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot in this wine with 15% alcohol aged in large oak vats for over a year. Aromas of chalk, minestrone, mocha, red cherries, pine and cedar. Elegant tannins and hefty and complex flavors that include German chocolate cake, sultanas, Amarone, maple syrup, Provence herbs and black cherries. Persistent length and rich red cherries on the finish; well integrated crisp acidity. Pair with barbecued beef or lamb. 15% alcohol.

Savalan Aspi Winery. Special Edition Red Wine. 2018. 93-94 points. $35.00. [Good Value ♫]

Made from 100% Merlot, this 16% alcohol wine includes aromas of tobacco, black licorice, roasted chestnuts, black pepper, red cherries, cedar and eucalyptus. Complex, textured, crunchy and fruit forward with flavors of red plums, red cherries and chocolate cake. Soft tannins and well enfolded acidity.

Chabiant. Bayan Shira. 2023. 91+ points. $7.35. [Excellent Value ♫♫]

Produced by enologist Marco Catelani In the Ismayilli wine region from the Bayan Shira grape. The grape is intriguing—think characteristics of Sauvignon Blanc as well as dry Riesling and Chablis. This light lime colored wine with 12.5% alcohol has crisp and zesty acidity with aromas of guavas and dried apricots. Sparky and pronounced flavors that include green apples and tangerines mid palate as well as some herbaceousness and slight salinity. Scintillating citrics and a creamy finish derived from weekly stirring of dead yeast cells (lees) in a process known as battonage.

Chabiant. Rkatsiteli Mtsvane White. 2023. 92+ points. $7.35. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Intense perfume of lilacs, white flowers, white pears and slight mint from this blend of grapes from Georgia. Gin and tonic freshness, silky mouth feel and flavors of lemon, chilled mint tea, mandarins, slight pineapple and mangos. A layered, exotic and cheerful wine—acidity wrapped in tropical fruits. Pair with eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, bell peppers and herbs.

Chabiant. Madrasa. 2022. 93-94 points. $11.75. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

Aged 12 months in medium toasted second use French oak. Aromas of red cherries, blackberries, chocolate, blueberries, tobacco, black pepper and cinnamon. Flavors of Flake chocolate, German chocolate cake, dark plums, black licorice, cassis and molasses. Complex and textured with bright, gentle and suave acidity and pronounced tannins. This monovarietal encompasses northern Rhone Valley meets right bank Bordeaux. Journey into the Land of Giants here, regarding flavor. Pair with sausages cooked with a Madrasa wine/cherry sauce.

F.A. Valley. Colorino Pet Nat. 2024. 93+ points. €18.00. [Superlative Value ♫♫♫]

From medical doctor Farhad Ağayev in the Khachmaz District and Caspian Shoreline wine region, this naturally effervescent wine is a dark cherry/amber color and is made without added sulfites. Brisk aromas of mandarins, raspberries, strawberries and slight menthol. Crisp, fine and fresh bubbles and balanced flavors include light red and orange fruit, cherry juice and gingerbread. Fresh acidity, smooth tannins and with a slightly yeasty finish. Delicious. Only 11% alcohol in this wine you will love pouring for friends.

F.A. Valley. Aglianico. 2022. 92 points. €12.00. [Excellent Value ♫♫]

This 13% alcohol wine is fermented in cement tanks with natural yeast. Dark color and aromas of dark plums, black peppers and slight eucalyptus. Heft and elegant wine with firm yet supple tannins and flavors that include mushrooms and red cherries.

F.A. Valley. Ragazzaccia Aglianico. 2020. 92+ points. €30.00.

Hefty and bright aromas that include black berries. Juicy acidity, subtle tannins, light red fruit flavors include red cherries. Brilliant acidity.

F. A. Valley. Fratello Sangiovese. 2020. 91-92 points.

Dr. Ağayev named this wine after his brother and business partner Farid. Fermented in cement tanks, then aged two years in large Slavonian oak casks followed by two years in bottles. Aromas of menthol, minestrone, black cherries, dark plums—a layered winter cake. Complex. Firm tannins. Flavors include sour red cherries and black pepper. 13% alcohol.

Qalaciq Winery. Chardonnay. 2024. 90 points.

This boutique winery sources grapes from the north of the country. Strong floral aromatics as well as aromas of marshmallows, candy cane, Tunisian rose and buttered toast in this wine with 12.8 percent alcohol. Light, candied flavors that include lime. Slightly creamy with a crisp, honeyed and acidic finish. Only 3,000 bottles produced.