Winter Wines From Five Italian Regions To Sample

During two days spent visiting exhibitors at Wine Paris 2025, I sampled impressive wines from five regions of Italy. Below are some notes about memorable vintages.

Piedmont

Fratelli Negri Viticoltori. Vino Bianco. 2023. 90-91 points.

Made from the Erbaluce grape by two brothers and a sister in the northern Piedmont and bottled at Sizzano, this 13% alcohol wine has flavors that include chewy fresh green apples.

Cantina Fratelli Negri Viticoltori. Sizzano DOC. 2021. 92 points.

A 90/10 Nebbiolo/Vespolelina blend with the color of a cerasuolo wine. Smoky aromas of petrol, slate, prunes and plums. Intriguing and satisfying Nebbiolo, which the makers recommend pairing with truffles.

Veneto—

Located between Verona and Garda lake, this appellation founded in 1971 is named after a village where battles were fought in the 19^th century. Four main white grapes are used: Garganega, Trebbianello, Bianca Fernanda and Trebbiano Toscano in these low alcohol (12.5%) wines. Aromas include green grass and florals, and flavors are often crisp and honeyed. Recommended producers include, but are not limited to, the following:

• Azienda Agricola Cavalchina.
• Gorgo.
• Albino Piona
• Villa Medici
• Tamburino Sardo

Abruzzo

Masciarelli Tenute Agricole. Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva. DOC. 2022. 93+ points.

From a land of black and white truffles and saffron comes this white wine that spent 12 months aging in oak. Racy aromas of grapefruit, white pears, tangerines and some menthol. An oily, gentle mouth feel with silky acidity and flavors that include a honey/menthol tilt with salinity on the finish. Pair with salami and prosciutto.

Masciarelli Tenute Agricole. Marina Cvetic. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Riserva. DOC. 2020.

‘Montepulciano was the Red Bull of the old times,’ Miriam Lee Masciarelli said, explaining how field workers would begin work at 5:00 a.m. and then take a ‘second breakfast’ about 9:00 a.m. They stashed bottles of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wine at the bottom of a water well to keep them cool, then pulled these out by a string before resting in the shade of a fig tree and swigging the juice for energy.

Gorgeous Burgundian style aromas that include brownies, petrol, toast and blackberries. Flavors of dark plums, black berries and licorice.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Tenuta Stella. Ribolla Gialla. Metodo Classico. 90-91 points.

Sparkling wine from Collio. Using the traditional method with wild yeast to produce this sparkling wine that spends 36 months on lees. Creamy full mouth feel and flavors of brioche and lime.

Tenuta Stella. Malvasia. Collio DOC. 2022. 91+-92 points.

Aged in non-toasted tonneau, this Malvasia is typical of the region with good body and roundness. Aromas of orange peel and ginger, and creamy flavors that include oranges and guavas.

Sicily

Tommasi Family Estates. Ammura. Etna Bianco DOC. 2022. 91+-92 points.

A new project launched from Tommasi Family Estates titled Ammura is named after an Arabic word describing charming feminine attributes, because that is what Sicilian locals believe volcanic Mount Etna possesses. 100% made from the Carricante grape and aged in stainless steel. Brittle minerality, acidity and fruitiness in this wine with rounded characteristics; sweet and sour and with gentle, creamy flavors. 12.5% alcohol.

Tommasi Family Estates. Ammura. Etna Rosso DOC. 2022. 92-93 points.

This 13.5% alcohol wine made from the Nerello Mascalese grape is aged in large Slavonian oak. Meaty, slippery flavors in this easy drinking wine—spices wrapped in red cherries with bright acidity. A wine to be matched with food.