Twelve Mid Winter Wines From Six Regions Of France

Winter has run two-thirds its course, and February’s chill is ripe for pairing full fare such as hot stews with hearty wines. Consider the bottles below. All are red except one Burgundian white, which complements the season’s brisk freshness.

The Bordeaux wines come from three appellations—Bourg, Entre-Deux-Mers and Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. Castillon wines originate near the town of Castillon-la-Bataille where the final battle of the Hundred Years War between England and France was fought in 1453 (the French were victorious; this series of wars actually lasted 116 years, and didn’t formally end for another 20 years after this battle).

Burgundy wines below include a appellation outlier from Arnaud Boué—made exclusively from Gamay, the signature grape of the Beaujolais wine region to the south. It is a stellar surprise from the region.

The wines from Beaujolais come from Moulin-à-Vent and Juliénas, two of the ten ‘cru’ wine villages/appellations, which supply wines of reputed highest quality from the region.

The wine from Côtes de Auvergne was vinified in central France in a volcanic region where Julius Caesar battled (and lost to) Vercingetorix, chief of the Arverni tribe, in 52 BC.

Côtes de Bourg –

Château Mercier. Clos du Piat. Cuvée Christophe. Côtes de Bourg. 2020. 93–94 points.

A 80/20 Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend aged in 80% new oak, with 14% alcohol. Provides a rich and complex odorous blast of crispy bacon, wood smoke, tobacco, fern glen, red plums, prunes, raspberries and orange rind. A chewable mouthful of ripe berries, as well as flavors of molasses, rum, oranges, even peaches and dark licorice. Sweet, wild, unique, blustering and untamed tastes from the rolling and mysterious hills of Bourg. This is Madeira meets old Bordeaux; dark vintage flavors you have not tasted before. Pair with a recipe from owner Madame Chety, including ratatouille or pears in wine—poires au vin.

Entre-Deux-Mers –

Chateau Haut Peyrat. Grand Vin de Bordeaux. 2022. 94 points.

64/20/11/5 Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Malbec blend. Dark purple color. Slight flint as well as earthy and fruit aromas—forest, plums, dark licorice, raspberries. A bright, beautiful mouthful of fresh ripe fruits—cherries, plums, blackberries as well as figs—buoyed up with magnificent acidity. Some morels and cocoa on the finish. Firm but quiet tannins. Pair with a smorgasbord that includes a range of meats, cheeses, as well as fruit chunks and chutney.

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux –

Maison Kavaklidere. Château La Croix Lartigue. Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. 2021. 94+ points.

A 65/35 Cabernet Franc/Merlot blend from 40 year old vines; aged 12 months in oak. Rich coffee and chocolate initial aromas with hazelnuts and red and black cherries, charred beef, tar and smoke. Rich, deep, chocolaty set of mid palate flavors—meaty with molasses and balsamic flavors; secondary characteristics dominant here. Hearty and satisfying; varied and layered, though wanting even more complexity. Pair with a solid meal—pulled pork and apple sauce or a four-cheese lasagna with mushrooms.

Maison Kavaklidere. Château La Croix Lartigue. Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. 2017. 95+ points.

50/50 Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend. Almost Nebbiolo like on the first nose—brazen with a scent of tight raw tannins, somewhat chalky, screaming acidity, red plums, minestrone, goulash. A deep and dark mouthful that is both playful and serious because it is layered, complex and also opaque with flavors phase-shifted from most Bordeaux reds—so it is darker, more tannic and unabashedly brazen. Flavors include soy and balsamic. Castillon’s hyper calcareous soils are evident here. Pair with high quality beef; consider char siu—Chinese barbecued pork.

Chateau Claud-Bellevue. Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux. 2021. 95-96 points

A 70/30 blend of Merlot and both Cabernet Franc and old vine Cabernet Sauvignon. This 13.5% alcohol wine includes a vibrant purple rim color and soft aromas of boysenberries, butterscotch, crushed blackberries and tarragon. Flavors include a dark envelope of dripping melted caramel, brown fudge, Fry’s chocolate cream and molasses. This is a gooey three course meal; a German Black Forest chocolate cake that is dark and sweetly delicious. Structured and bright but not flashy acidity Pairing could be a challenge—difficult to pair with dessert because it can be considered a dessert. Reminiscent of a Baboso Negro wine from the Canary Islands—chocolate explosion with plums and licorice.

Burgundy –

Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines. Puligny-Montrachet. Les Pucelles. Premier Cru. 2022. 96+ points.

From vines planted in 1970; vinified 16 months in 40% new oak. Production of 1600 bottles, 100 magnums and five jeroboams (three liter bottles) of this succulent white juice. Rich grapefruit, flint, guava, mandarin and slight buttered toast aromas from this 13.5% Burgundian Chardonnay. Rich and layered flavors that include white pears, peaches, mild lemon and butter. Silky mouth feel. Bright, burnished but tamed acidity. This is a wine that will make you jostle your neighbors aside in order to get to a second glass. Pair with scallops and lime.

Domaine du Cellier Aux Moines. Les Dessus. Givry Premier Cru. 2022. 96 points.

Third vintage of this Pinot Noir from the Burgundian Les Dessus parcel that is in conversion to biodynamic production. Only 2,400 bottles, 15 magnums and 10 jeroboams produced. Dark truffle and black licorice initial aromas, opening up to include raspberry confiture, white and black pepper and tarragon. A light attack, a scintillating soft but semi-spicy mid palate and cherry juice on the finished. Layered, delicate, rare. A detailed wine that is uplifting and needs no food, but could be paired with an appetizer of bacon wrapped prunes stuffed with dates.

Arnaud Boué. Coteaux Bourguignons. 2021. 94-95 points.

Winemaker Arnaud Boué, who worked with wine in Pomerol, Bordeaux and Marlborough, New Zealand, returned to his Burgundy roots for forge his own winemaking path. He used Gamay as a blending grape, but with leftover juice he made this single grape varietal which customers love. Light cherry color. Aromas of brick, sweet honey, lilacs, strawberries and black cherries. Mid palate flavors are subtle, elaborate, complex and surging with cherries and even tangerines. Supple and succulent tannins. Delicious with a crackling finish. Pair with a parfait dessert or grilled duck with orange sauce.

Arnaud Boué. Gevrey-Chambertin. 2021. 94+ points.

100% Pinot Noir. Color of cherries—darker than this winemaker’s Gamay. Succulent aromas will make you salivate—red cherries, dark plums and blackberry tart, some molasses and black pepper. Snappy attack, commanding mid palate with succulent red and black fruit. Complex, enticing. Crisp acidity. Layered. Pair with duck breast and foie gras, or a soy rice pilaf with mushrooms.

Beaujolais –

Domaine Mont Bessay. Le Vieux Bourg. Moulin à Vent. 2022. 94+ points.

A Beaujolais from the Moulin-á-Vent appellation. 13.5% alcohol in this Gamay grape wine from a year of low yields. A perky set of initial creamy aromas that include chocolate cookies, fudge brownies, raspberries, blueberries, candied oranges and cinnamon. A light but firm body with delicate tannins and soft flavors that include mandarins, mint brittle and dark milk chocolate. Fine and wispy—a testament to the beauties of the best cru Beaujolais. Pair with veal cutlets and mint sauce or a broccoli and cabbage soup.

Domaine Mont Bessay. En Bessay. Juliénas. 2022. 95 points.

A 13.5% alcohol Gamay from the Juliénas cru appellation in Beaujolais. 5,700 bottles and 200 magnums produced. Dark chocolate, fresh black pepper, black cherry aromas with a slight hint of ginger. Rich and soft flavors of plums, strudel, lava cake and red cherries. A thoroughly tactile and sensory delight—silky on the cheeks with delicate acidity. As rich as a madeira though lower in alcohol. Pair with a pork loin and shallots, or with a pumpkin and lemon risotto.

Côtes d’Auvergne –

Amistad. Emily Seguy at Domaine Gilles Persillieir. Côtes d’Auvergne. 2024. 92-93 points.

Made by sommelier Emily Seguy at Domaine Gilles Persillier, located just south of the city of Clermont-Ferrand in the Auvergne region in central France. A Pinot Noir/Gamay blend that is rich, crisp and hearty on the first nose, followed by distinct and different aromas of succulent black currants and fresh baked pie crust. A perky attack, followed by a dark and succulent mid palate bursting with cassis and blackberry flavors. A hint of caramel on the finish. Fresh with firm tannins and scintillating acidity. Pair with meaty tagliatelle or a vegetarian stew that includes mushrooms, carrots, soy and cauliflower. Wow!