As men’s Paris Fashion Week Spring Summer 2026 was drawing to an end, France was heading into its second ‘canicule’, aka heatwave, within June. Meteorologists are predicting extreme heat globally earlier and earlier in the summer. This particular weather issue did not deter Hermés’ artistic director Veronique Nichanian from proposing extremely lightweight and smooth like butter leather dressing for the upcoming season, perhaps the ultimate luxury to wear lambskins, while fabrics like linen seem obvious. But where’s the fun in that?

Backstage, Nichanian broke down her approach to making the material not always a summer go-to, light as air. “It’s really a concept because doing light leather is really difficult,” Nichanian as she described employing techniques such an open-weave leather on bomber jackets, button shirts, tank style tops and details on T-shirt sleeve as well as slits on pants to let air flow in and out.

Notably, the collection, which remained in the muted and neutral color palette with colors such as putty, coffee, caramel, and burgundy, among others, was devoid of shorts, which have ruled the men’s runway this season. Instead, the designer told reporters that she explored proportion, making the neatly tailored pants a bit short at ankle length for the majority of the offerings. (Other styles were more louche and relaxed.)

The collection featured intriguing knitwear, whether with a collar and tucked into pants, as an intarsia knit cardigan, or a short-sleeved polo shirt. While boxy jacket shapes prevailed, a version from the previous season was seen on guests and staff; a proper suit was in a double-breasted style for good measure.

This being Hermés’ accessories were also prominent, especially notable in a loose neck scarf that read more ‘paysan’ than urban city slicker. Nichanian explained that the new style, which was made of leather and fringed, added pops of color—especially in the Kelly green version—and gave the type of attitude she sought in the collection. Thong style sandals prevailed as footwear on the looks, and large oversized bags dominated the man bags.

“I’m tiny, but I love big bags,” the designer quipped. Physically, it’s correct, Nichanian is petite. But her idea on luxury dressing for men looms large.

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