Gastronomy Is Among The Main Attractions For Latinos Moving To Madrid

Over the last few years, Madrid has become a hub for Latinoamericans from all walks of life seeking to move abroad. 25 years ago, the census indicated 81,552 people from across the Americas called Madrid home, but in December 2024 the number of Latinos currently living in the Spanish capital surpassed the one million mark, rivaling Miami as the desired target city.

Among the reasons for the shift are the sociopolitical climate in the United States, the difference in cost of living, better opportunities for work and education, and a thriving cultural and gastronomic scene.

“Madrid has become a magnet for many reasons: climate, lifestyle, cultural and gastronomic offerings, physical and legal security and favorable conditions for undertaking an economic activity,” says Cecilia Varela, a Mexican-born luxury real estate advisor whose growing clientele of wealthy Latin American investors rely on her expertise to choose the best places to live.

“When I arrived in Madrid in 2015, the majority of Latin Americans were Venezuelan; the Mexicans who were there at that time were expatriates from Mexican companies that operated in Spain such as CEMEX, Campofrio, Cinepolis and Grupo Modelo, among many others,” she says. “At the end of 2018, Mexican capital began arriving, and from that date onwards, not only did Mexicans seek to make their real estate investment profitable, but they also started showing interest in acquiring a second home or applying for the Golden Visa through that investment.”

Varela and her husband, Madrid-born winemaker Adolfo Hornos Prados, wanted to show me favorite places to eat and drink in the neighborhoods preferred by her clients. I could not have asked for better guides – Varela’s Mexican perspective and Hornos Prados’ deep knowledge of the industry provided the best-of-both-worlds experience, opening a unique window into the vibrant dining and drinking scene in the most coveted neighborhoods in Madrid.

Ibiza

“This charming corner of Madrid is a popular neighborhood thanks to its taverns and bars and its proximity to El Retiro park and Salamanca neighborhood,” says Varela. “It is not a trendy neighborhood in which to live, but it is a lively, up-and-coming area where locals flock for lunch, dinner and meeting up for drinks.”

La Catapa

This lively taberna, a favorite of local residents, is the personal project of chef Miguel Ángel Jiménez who, after working in fine dining establishments like El Amparo, El Cenador de Salvador, Guisando and Ramsés, decided to put haute cuisine on hold and give free reins to his tavern spirit.

La Catapa is a small, understated space on Calle Menorca. The space centers around a packed L-shaped bar devoted to the traditions of tapas, vermouth, and beer and wine by the glass. A few high tables around its central column and a petite dining room with just eight tables are always in demand, so advance reservations are definitely encouraged. However, the vibrant atmosphere is neither loud nor uncomfortable.

A pleasant, relaxed vibe is enhanced by impeccable service and regular tableside visits from Jiménez himself and sommelier Nico Fernández, who oversees one of the most extensive and dynamic wine lists in Madrid.

The philosophy embraced by Jiménez is one of hyper local and unique seasonal offerings, prepared in the simplest of styles to let the ingredients and their flavors speak for themselves. Enthusiastically, he comes to our table to proclaim the virtues of the just arrived corujas, a wild cress that grows in the mountains on the outskirts of Madrid. “They grow near the streams, and their season is very short. We are lucky we still found some foraged this morning,” he says. And we are lucky we ordered them, simply dressed with olive oil and fresh tomato pulp.

What followed was an A-list of incredibly fresh, shareable bites – raw French oysters, sea urchin, potato and truffle croquettes, sea bream cooked in a salt crust, and torreznos, wonderfully crispy strips of pork belly that quickly disappeared from the plate in between sips of a fabulous Altos de Lozada white wine from Bierzo. For dessert a milhojas with caramel, pine nuts and turron ice cream, accompanied by a glass of dessert wine, provided the perfect finish to a memorable meal.

Before we leave, Jiménez sends us to some of his favorite places to eat and drink. Who can argue with a local chef’s recommendations?

Los Jerónimos

“This distinguished neighborhood is considered one of the most elegant and aristocratic in Madrid,” says Varela. “Its most emblematic architectural and cultural gems include the Prado Museum and the iconic Ritz Hotel, as well as two of the most iconic spaces in the city: the extensive El Retiro park, the city’s historic green lung and the Royal Botanical Garden, opposite the south façade of the Prado Museum. The latter, dating back to the 18th century, combines nature and heritage in a unique setting that defines the exclusive character of Los Jerónimos.”

La Venencia

When chef Jiménez realized I’m a fan of sherry, he did not hesitate to send us to this venerable institution serving vino de Jerez since 1922. “If they wash the walls they will fall off,” he said, and he was not exaggerating. Decades of cigarette and cigar smoke have patinaed them a golden sepia, a background to colorful posters announcing La Feria del Jerez from decades past.

Don’t expect to find anything other than six styles of sherry, served from dusty barrels into traditional glassware alongside a small dish of green olives. There are a few classic tapas you can order on the side, such as chorizo or anchovies acompanied with bread. Make sure you respect the no photography policy, then spend a few hours drinking fine sherry and rubbing elbows – quite literally – with the locals at this slice of living history.

Taberna García de la Navarra

Pedro and Luis García de la Navarra decided to join forces in 2011 to open this cozy restaurant, featuring exquisite seasonal cuisine made with quality raw materials purchased directly from producers, foregoing the need for intermediaries. The brothers achieved their goal of making traditional cuisine based on seasonal products selected from the best suppliers. Everything in this restaurant speaks of the new Spanish gastronomy that celebrates proximity and love for the land.

The menu at Taberna García de la Navarra always showcases fabulous fresh vegetables from Navarra, meats from Galicia, fish and seafood conserves from the Cantabrian Sea and game such as patridge and boar prepared in a variety of styles.

After bringing a glass of an excellent Manzanilla, our waiter was quick to recommend items that had arrived fresh that day – mountain thistles braised in olive oil, confitted piquillos and fresh turbot, simply poached to preserve the fresh flavor from the sea.

Luis García de la Navarra, the restaurant’s sommelier, wanted the wine to feature prominently at his cozy family bar. His carefully chosen list includes an impressive 2,233 labels from all Spanish producing regions and highlights from international wineries. His recommendations are one of the aspects most valued by customers, part of the dedication that floor staff display in looking after their customers as if they are part of the family.

Las Cortes

“This neighborhood in central Madrid, a short distance from the tree-lined Paseo del Prado, is a hub of art and literature, especially in the iconic Barrio de las Letras, where Calle Huertas is adorned with quotes from writers such as Cervantes and Lope de Vega. The area is also famous for the lively nightlife of Plaza de Santa Ana, full of terraces and tapas bars,” says Varela.

Bar Manero

This is the fourth location of a popular chain created by businessman Carlos Bosch around high-end gastronomic products with its own labels, including wines and premier olive oils. At Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas, Bosch offers a luxury gastronomic experience led by chef Carles Abellán, where tapas, traditional and fusion cuisine, mixology and live music mingle in a spacious 450 square meter space, decked in rich textiles, custom-made furniture and wallpapers, beautiful lamps, handmade mosaic floors and carved wood.

The space houses an elegant cocktail bar and a smaller one with a corner paying homage to Julio Iglesias, among other unique elements. It also offers a private room and reserved areas for private events complete with a karaoke bar. Another horseshoe shaped, gastronomic bar boasts a display of housemade charcuterie and fresh seafood, as well as a selection of the best caviar served with Dom Pérignon, an ambassador of the house.

But the menu also includes simpler yet delicious fare. A salad of ripe tomatoes drizzled with one of the house olive oils and topped with tuna ventresca from their own brand of conservas, or a melt-in-your-mouth grilled leek confit, are prime examples. We were told that their version of Madrid’s most emblematic tapa, the grilled calamari roll, was the best in town, and it did not disappoint. Paired with excellent cocktails and a varied wine list and you have a tried and true neighborhood favorite.

Montes de Toledo

Madrid itself has so much to offer, but its proximity to incredible experiences within a couple of hours drive is another boon which new residents value. Getting in the car and driving a few kilometers from the capital affords families an opportunity to experience rural culture and some of Spain’s most celebrated wineries for a day out or a weekend getaway. And since one of our guides happens to be a winemaker, we could not pass the chance to add a daytrip to Montes de Toledo.

Bodega Pago de Vallegarcía

This winery, located approximately 157 km south of Madrid and 60 km south of Toledo, covers an area of ​​50 hectares at an altitude of 850 meters above sea level, in the Montes de Toledo region surrounding the Cabañeros National Park. Adolfo Hornos Prados, an agricultural engineer with a master’s in oenology and viticulture and another in management of agribusiness, has been involved with Bodega Pago de Vallegarcía since it opened in 1999, from planting the vineyards to helping design and build the winery, planning the production process and executing its start-up.

The austere, acidic soils of the region reflect the erosion of the oldest mountains on the Iberian Peninsula, and the continental climate, with hot summers and cold humid winters, contribute to a unique terroir which led to the creation of a Protected Designation of Origin as a Pago. The Pago is a very special Spanish designation awarded to a winery that meets certain very strict criteria. There are only 21 Pago wineries in Spain; Vallegarcía received their denomination in 2019.

Currently, Hornos Prados is the winemaker and general manager, leading the technical team and management of the vineyards planted with Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Merlot, and Viognier, the first vineyard in Spain to grow the aromatic French white varietal. In an impeccably clean, state-of-the-art winery, Hornos Prados and his team produce extraordinary wines from hand-harvested grape clusters which are carefully de-stemmed and crushed to obtain the best quality juice.

His meticulous, low-intervention approach to winemaking has garnered Hornos Prados accolades over the years, most recently from Robert Parker who awarded 93 points to the 2022 Syrah and Hipperia, 93 points to the 2021 Garnacha Cariñena, 91 points to the 2021 Petit Hipperia and 91 points to the 2022 Viognier. The wines are made to showcase terroir and true varietal, as well as pair with the most traditional of regional foods: chorizos, cheeses, game and seafood.

Luckily, Hornos Prados knows just the place to try his wines paired with expertly prepared local specialties. In the tiny village of Las Ventas Con Peña Aguiera, about 40 km from the winery, the most incredible gastronomic experience awaits.

Casa Parrilla

Montes de Toledo is widely known as a hunting region, where enthusiasts search for prized game such as wild boar, various species of deer, partridge and hare to prepare traditional regional dishes. And here, a restaurant specializing in cooking these delicacies has attracted worldwide attention, even from the Michelin Guide.

Family owned and operated since 1992, Casa Parrilla is, at first glance, an uassuming roadside restaurant. But once inside, it’s clear that this cozy, rustic dining room offers much more than meets the eye. As we enter we are met with a table filled with various small producer olive oils, some costing as much as 100€ a bottle. Another table holds small plates filled with wild foraged mushrooms, and a larger one boasts an impressive selection of cheeses.

The menu reflects the philosophy of gastronomía cinegética, a rural cuisine based on hunted wild game and foraged ingredients which is gaining momentum across Spain.

Sommelier and co-owner Alvaro Parrilla comes to the table with an olive oil sampler accompanied by freshly baked bread and a couple glasses of vermut. Allowing him to choose our meal yields a surprising array of treats: a seasonal pâté en croûte made from hare, patrtidge, foie, wild mushrooms and truffles, accompanied by radish pickles and madroño, a local tree berry; red patridge caneloni with winter truffles; slow roasted fallow deer ribs with green apple vinaigrette; and venison loin with chestnut puree and tempura parsnips, among other amazing dishes. Every single one is steeped in tradition and local ingredients, yet presented in a modern style that speaks to the vision and dexterity of the kitchen staff.

For dessert, Parrilla brought a selection of cheeses. Last year, he won the first prize for Best Restaurant Cheese Board during the 2024 edition of Fromago Cheese Experience, deservedly so. The selection at Casa Parrilla is a dream for fans of artisanal cheeses that express a sense of place, running the gamut from fresh goat to aged blue-veined cheeses, and of course, various manchegos which are among the best I’ve ever tasted.

After this whirlwind visit, I am envious of all my fellow Latinos who are now calling Madrid home. Perhaps in the future I will consider joining them.