An Oregon Riesling With European Roots

The Appassionata Riesling GG from the Chehalem Mountains AVA comes with serious winemaker cred.

Named for a sonata by Beethoven and hailing from the appellation in the northern Willamette Valley known for its classic French grape varieties, the Appassionata Riesling GG is produced by Ernst “Erni” Loosen, the renown German producer, whose roots in the Mosel Valley go back more than 200 years.

Though from the New World, this is Old World all the way—and in all the right ways. The 2018 has clearly defined orchard and stone fruits—Golden Delicious apple and apricot moving into rich lemon compote. Slightly unctuous petrol notes, along with other classic markers of the noble grape—a little crystallized beeswax—complete this elegant and nuanced wine. It is opulent without being lavish, has incredible balance and, despite its OG cred, has a modern, light style. A delicious partner to sausage-based or Asian-spiced dishes. I had this with a white bean, sausage and tortellini soup: With a chunk of crusty bread, it was a complete and satisfying winter meal.

GG—Grosses Gewächs, meaning “Great Growth,” is not an official designation in German wine law, but is a class of dry wines created by top producers that signifies sourcing from the best sites, or, as the German system allows, the Grosses Lage (“great sites”). Think of it like German’s version of Grand Cru.

This wine was produced from Riesling vines planted in 1976, fermented in a 3,000-liter German oak cask, and rested on its lees for 12 months before bottling. The winery has been organic since 2015. SRP $50-55.