Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi’s favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Come back every Tuesday for more.
Mellotone Beer Project described itself as a brewery with elevated food when it opened late last year. While the brewery part is very good (I’m especially fond of head brewer Alexandra Nowell’s extra special bitter (ESB), I had yet to try the food from chef Brendan Martin, formerly of Boca, until recently when I went there for lunch.
The space, formerly a church, feels much different than when Taft’s brewery occupied it, especially in the downstairs dining area, which has taken on a modern, Scandinavian aesthetic. Gone are the dark wood communal tables, replaced by higher-end seating arrangements, including upholstered banquettes worthy of a fine-dining establishment.
Squash croquettes with Fresno peppers, quark and pepper jelly, at Mellotone Beer Project, in Over-the-Rhine.
The dark, battered wood floors have been refinished and applied with a lighter stain. The room is brighter and far less “pubby” than it once was. At first, the changes can be jarring, but the restaurant’s playlist – my dining companion, Rasputin, described it as chillhop – helped put my mind at ease.
Squash croquettes ($10) are cooked flat like fritters and arrive with fiery red circles of pickled Fresno peppers. (“Always makes me happy when fresnos get cleaned properly before being pickled,” a renowned local chef commented when I posted a photo of the dish on Facebook.) They come with a small heap of whipped Urban Stead quark topped with sweet, spicy Fresno pepper jelly. Drag those little fritters through it and you’re in for a treat.
Lunch offerings at Mellotone Beer Project, in Over-the-Rhine.
Martin’s braised greens, a mess of collards, kale and bits of pork belly, are also a must. I like my greens sweet, and these hit the mark, with just enough of a vinegary punch. “Yeah, everybody loves those,” Martin said with a hint of surprise when I offered my compliments.
On paper, the fried chicken sandwich ($15) might sound overwhelming: a multi-layered mash-up of breaded chicken, Louisville-made Pop’s pickles, hot honey, roasted red peppers AND Urban Stead’s Ohio Valley Pimento Cheese. But it all comes together without being overwrought. There’s ample pickle coverage on the bottom of the sandwich (a must), and the light, creamy pimento cheese (a blend of quark and cheddar curds) plays like a cool companion to the spicy honey and peppers.
If you’re in the mood for something simple, there’s a mighty fine patty melt, as well as smashburgers, an ahi-tuna sandwich, soups and several salads. Now that I’ve visited Mellotone for drinks and lunch, I suppose my next mission is dinner. I’ll be sure to keep you posted.
Mellotone Beer Project, 1429 Race St., Over-the-Rhine, mellotonebeer.com. Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday. Closed Monday.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: What to try first on Mellotone Beer Project’s ‘elevated’ lunch menu
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