After recently visiting multiple producers and tasting 130 wines from the Bourgogne region in France, I selected the following 14 bottles from five of its wine producing sub-regions based on their overall quality and value.
This renowned French wine region is now pressing to be called Bourgogne rather than its English translation of Burgundy (or Italian translation of Borgogna). The reasons are varied, including that most names of other French wine regions are not translated, and—intriguingly—that the color referred to as ‘Burgundy’ in English is called ‘Bordeaux’ in France and Italy.
Bourgogne includes 84 distinct appellations, divided into Régional, Village (including Premier Cru) and Grand Cru distinctions, as well as over 1,800 climats—delineated vine plots with unique geological, exposure and hydrological characteristics.
Prices for wines range widely within Bourgogne, and the region’s overall cachet results in a small percentage of its wines commanding notably high prices (although Bourgogne produces 0.4% of the world’s volume of wine, that accounts for 4% of global wine trade value).
The selected wines below are listed from north to south, within the distinct sub-regions of Chablis & Grand Auxerrois, Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Côte de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Côte Chalonnais and Couchois, and Mâconnais.
All wines listed below are made either from white Chardonnay or red Pinot Noir grapes (although a smaller quantity of often excellent wines are made in the Bourgogne using Aligoté, César, Gamay and other grapes).
‘Value’ is determined by my proprietary Vino Value algorithm that normalizes and combines subjective tasting scores with objective bottle prices (retail, at cellar door) to identify wines of good (♫), excellent (♫♫) and superlative (♫♫♫) value—providing an optimal price/quality ratio. Note that prices are local in France, and will be higher in the U.S. due to various factors. Note also that these selected wines represent the output from only a very small sample of Bourgogne producers.
Porte Noël in the city of Chablis, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Chablis & Grand Auxerrois
Domaine des Malandes. Fourchaume. AOC Chablis 1er Cru. 2023. 93-94 points. €40.00/$45.60. Excellent Value ♫♫.
From Amandine Marchive and Richard Rottiers, whose grandmother began making wines in the region 50 years ago. The family ages most wines in a 70/30 blend of steel tanks and 500 liter Burgundian medium toasted barrels with oak from the Vosges forest. This Chardonnay includes complex aromas of honey and layered tropicals from one of the warmest climats in Chablis. Slightly nutty flavors in a crunchy, enticing mouthful of caramel and slight green apples in this Chardonnay.
“Our goal is to harvest quickly,” Amandine explained. “Otherwise if it is hot in August you can lose acidity; if it is rainy there is a threat of mildew. We harvest 30 hectares [75 acres] in eight days, hand picking for Premier and Grand Cru plots.”
Amandine Marchive of Domaine des Malandes, Chablis, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Domaine Verret. Chardonnay. AOC Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxuerre. 2023. 91-92 points. €12.00/$13.70. Good Value ♫.
From an estate with 148 acres (60 hectares), this 12.5% Chardonnay is vinified 50/50 in steel and used oak barrels and includes aromas of herbs, green apples, myrtle and slight salinity. Chewy, oily mouth feel in this semi-complex wine with a finish that includes slight caramel and lemon/line flavors.
Domaine Gabin et Félix Richoux. Veaupessiot. AOC Irancy. 2021. 92-93 points. €25/$28.50. Excellent Value ♫♫.
Irancy is an outlier—a village and appellation producing only red wines within Chablis, which is renowned for its dominant white wines. The village includes 250 residents, of which 10 are winemakers. With vines located above the River Yonne, these second generation winemaker brothers grow Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and César—a rare grape with big clustered bunches. Most of their visitors come from Paris, which is only two hours away by train.
This Pinot Noir from a cool year vintage aged two years in oak and includes classic Burgundian aromas, including black currants and black cherries as well as some flint and black pepper. Soft and silky tannins.
Gabin Richoux of Domaine Richoux, Irancy, Chablis, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Côte de Nuits and Hautes Côtes de Nuits
Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet. Clos Champ. AOC Gevrey-Chambertin. 2023. 96-97 points. €44.00/$50.20. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.
This domaine is owned by two business partners—one a winemaker and the other with roots in banking. Michaël Le Guellec took control over vines controlled by his family since 1920, although previously leased out. They use no chemicals. “We try to make wines fresh and fruity, which people like to drink soon,” Michaël explained. Wines are exported to Asia, Europe and the U.S.
Vines that produced grapes for this 13.5% alcohol Pinot Noir wine were planted between 1933 and 1985. Classic Burgundian aromas, including black pepper and volatiles. Suave tannins in this powerful, hefty, structured beauty of a wine with spice rack and elegance on the finish. Compelling, classic and a bargain.
Winemaker Michaël Le Guellec of Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet in Brochon, Côte-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France,
Tom Mullen
Domaine des Beaumont. AOC Morey-Saint-Denis. 2022. 92-93 points. €43.00/$49.00. Excellent Value ♫♫.
Brothers Tanguy and Exupèry, both in their 20’s, are 8th generation producers for a family that owns a 13.5 acre (5.5 hectare) estate.
The wine is produced from grapes from five different plots and includes edgy aromas of bacon, petrol and wild fennel. This is a dark and hardy Pinot Noir, reminiscent partially of a Colorino, with flavors that include black licorice and star anise. Firm tannic backbone. Pair with grilled beef. Keep going brothers— the results are well worth it!
Brothers Tanguy (right) and Exupéry Beaumont, Domaine des Beaumont, Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Domaine de Montmain. Les Jiromées Grande Tradition. AOC Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits. 2022. 92-93 points. €36.00/$41.10. Excellent Value ♫♫.
This wine estate is located up a beautiful valley west of, and perpendicular to, the axis of the hills that form the Côte d’Or. All wines are aged in oak, usually 30% new.
Thirty-five year old Mathieu Piedcourt, originally from Cahors, has turned the valley and winery into a popular destination for visitors and sells wines via a thousand member club as well as by direct sales and export. The story of Mathieu’s involvement in this estate is an unusually fortuitous tale.
This Chardonnay spent two years aging in new oak barrels. Aromas are bright, powerful and succulent and include grapefruit, limes and white flowers. The juice is not filtered. 4,000 bottles produced.
“We love what we do and we love to share it with others. Last year we had 8,000 visitors. We receive you whether you buy wine or not. I love wines that are powerful but with finesse.”
Mathieu Piedcourt of Domaine de Montmain, Villars-Fontaine, Haut-Côte-de-Nuits, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Côte de Beaune and Hautes Côtes de Beaune
Maison Louis Latour. Pinot Noir. AOC Bourgogne. 2022. 91-92 points. €20.70/$23.60. Good Value ♫.
Louis Latour, a venerable estate that has been in business since 1797, produces not only wines from 119 acres (48 hectares), but owns a cooperage that produces some 3,000 barrels a year—and has done so for centuries. Except for those barrels used in house, all are exported internationally to countries that include Australia and Canada.
This 13% alcohol Pinot Noir of solid value includes firm tension between acidity and fruit and is an easy drinking starter for a summer gathering. Consider pairing with a dish that includes fat to match its tannic backbone.
Cellars with old bottles within Domaine Louis Latour, Beaune, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Maison Shaps. Les Vaumuriens. AOC Pommard. 2022. 95+ points. €48.00/$54.70. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.
Hanna Shaps has been managing this winery for her American father Michael who also produces wine in Virginia in the U.S. “It’s important to be a French-American producer and not an American-French producer,” Hanna explained. The maison is a negociant, and produces some 15 different cuveés and 20,000 bottles per year from four hectares (10 acres) the family owns.
This Pinot Noir wine aged 15 months in 50% new oak. Includes sunny, bright, striking and elegant aromas such as sage. A wine with heft and structure, shouldered tannins and flavors that include black peppers. A dark, edgy and textured Pinot Noir with sesame and soy on the finish.
Hotel de Ville, Beaune, France
Tom Mullen
Bernard et Florian Regnaudot. Clos des Loyéres. AOC Maranges 1er Cru. 2020. €18.00/$20.50. 95+ points. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.
This domaine is named after the father/son, 3rd/4th generation winemakers. Florian spent time making wine in Winona, Minnesota in the U.S.
The Maranges appellation will be the site for the January, 2026 Saint-Vincent Tournante weekend long festival of music, wine and food.
From vines planted in 1931, this Pinot Noir wine includes aromas of blackcurrants, black pepper, tobacco and tar. This is a deep, dark, peppery and elegant wine at astonishing value. Gentle fruit and light, slick tannins.
Florian Regnaudot of Domaine Bernard and Florian Regnaudot, Santenay, Côte de Beaune, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Côte Chalonnais & Couchois
Domaine de l’Evêché. Édition Limitée. Pinot Noir. AOC Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise. 2022. 92-93 points. €25.00/$28.50. Excellent Value ♫♫.
Quentin Joussier, fourth generation winemaker, works with his father Vincent, who bought the winery in 1985. The name of the winery translates to ‘the bishop.’
This Pinot Noir ages in new barrels and is only produced on years when conditions are optimal. Deep, rich aromas of red cherries, raspberries and some Dutch dorp licorice as well as wild fennel. Well integrated and elegant tannins and easy drinking.
Quentin Joussier of Domaine de l’Evêché, Saint-Denis-de-Vaux, Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne, France,
Tom Mullen
Domaine Michel Juillot. Clos du Roi. AOP Mercurey Premier Cru. 2024. 93-94 points. €35.00/$40.00. Excellent Value ♫♫.
Beautiful cheery, light, floral aromas in this Pinot Noir. Precise and focused flavors include red cherries. Winemaker Maxime Rolant said that, “For me, Mercurey is cherries.” No disagreement with that.
Maxime Rolant of Domaine Michel Juillot, Mercurey, Côte Chalonnaise, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Mâconnais
Domaine Montbarbon. En Pommetin. AOC Viré-Clessé. 2023. 92-93 points. €21.00/$24.00. Excellent Value ♫♫.
From this estate, on a clear day you can look east and see Mont Blanc, tallest peak in continental Europe. They have 32 acres [13 hectares] of vines, exclusively Chardonnay. Jean-Jacques Féral was a journalist before becoming a winemaker, and won an award for his winemaking in the Mâconnais region in 2022. He works with Martin Froppier. The estate provides vine cuttings to a nursery in the Savoie, which creates massal (rather than clonal) replacement vines for them.
This Chardonnay ages eight months in 500 liter oak barrels as well as six months in steel. Aromas of mandarins and menthol and slight salinity. A rich, creamy, delicious wine that includes precise flavors of tropical fruits and slight honey. Pair with chicken, or a caramelized apple tart (tarte tatin).
Jean-Jacques Féral of Domaine Montbarbon, Virè, Mâconnais, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Domaine Auvigue. Au Vignerais. AOP Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru. 2021. 94+ points. €34.00/$38.90. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.
The winery is located in a beautifully renovated centuries old church. Sylvain Brenas explained their thinking.
“The idea is to show a different style of Chardonnay. We are in the extreme south of Mâconnais, only a few kilometers from where the Beaujolais appellation begins.”
This Chardonnay aged 16 months in a 50/50 combination of steel and oak. Aromas of salinity, pineapple, mangos. Crisp and creamy mouthful with slight menthol and guavas on the finish. Pair with scallops and shallots.
Sylvain Brenas of Domaines Auvigue, Fuissé, Máconnais, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
Domaine Corsin. L’Exception. AOP Pouilly-Fuissé. 94-95 points. €39.80/$45.50. Superlative Value ♫♫♫.
This winery, founded in 1864, gathers grapes from 40 separate plots. The hosts, including Pauline Mussy and Tiphanie Fortune, are casual, down to earth, warm and unpretentious. Their welcoming tasting room inadvertently resembles an Alpine ski lodge.
This Chardonnay is made by winemaker Jérémy Corsin using grapes from three different plots and 70 year old vines. It is barrel vinified and barrel aged. Flinty, slightly salty and classic Burgundian Chardonnay aromas. Rich and creamy mid palate with crisp acidity and rich tropical fruits.
Winemaker Jérémy Corsin with a bottle of 1997 Domaine Corsin, Mâconnais, Bourgogne, France
Tom Mullen
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